Memphis Day One

Coming into Memphis, I knew what I had to do first. Graceland. I didn't stop at my hotel, didn't stop to eat, didn't pass go or collect $200. I went straight to Graceland and was met by an almost airport like visitor center. I walked in and got into a windy ticket line while various shuttle buses loaded outside, attendants giving calls for each bus. The only thing missing was a long security line and luggage. While I waited for my "flight" to depart, I browsed one of the gift shops and found something I must have. I've been in need of a keychain and as I was browsing through all of the various key keepers, one leaped out at me. On one side is a picture of Elvis meeting Richard Nixon with their names on the flipside. Now I proudly carry the King and the President in my pocket.

One at the mansion, there's an audio tour that takes you through the house. Elvis sure knew how to decorate. My fave was the pool room, covered on every wall and the ceiling with the gaudiest fabric possible. And the round, furry bed with the radio in the headboard was pretty cool too, as was the "Jungle Room." It's really a nice place, not over the top in size and obviously meant to be lived in. Seeing the outfits was pretty cool too, with the Tiger being my favorite.

Graceland was not a pilgrimage site for me as it is for a lot of people, but it's a fun place to see. And now I've paid my respects to the King, whose grave is perpetually decorated with flowers from fans. Pretty amazing to always have an abundance of flowers for a grave for thirty years.

After checking off Graceland from my "Things To Do Before I Die" list, I headed to what is called by some the best BBQ in Memphis, Jim Neely's Interstate Barbecue. Good ribs, very good ribs. And since I was in the neighborhood, I decided to track down the Full Gospel Tabernacle, presided over by the right Reverend Al Green. I found it and am going to try to go to their Sunday service if I have time before I leave. We'll see.

The entire time I was in South Memphis that evening, I was the only white person in view. I sat in a busy park for a little over an hour and didn't see anybody that wasn't of African descent. Same thing when I was driving. For all I know, I could have been the only Caucasian in all of South Memphis. It was truly the first time I've felt like I was an ethnic minority. Kind of a cool thing for someone from Olympia, a.k.a. Whitetown. Memphis is definitely not Olympia in that regard.

I headed to Beale Street that night to find some blues and I have one thing to say about that. On Beale, the blues is business. It is one of the biggest tourist draws this town has to offer. Unfortunately that takes some of the authenticity out of it and in some cases, turns the blues into funk, R&B, and other various blues derivatives. I did find a band that played some straightforward, gritty, Delta style blues and had a great time. Sure they were hawking their product, but that product was good. They could play good blues, mostly of the Sonny Boy Williamson, Howlin' Wolf, BB King variety. I didn't have as good of luck the following night, but more of that in Day Two's post.